Everything You Never Wanted to Know About Cardstock

August 1, 2025

📚 Everything You Never Wanted to Know About Cardstock

A practical guide for makers who want their cards to behave.

Whether you’re layering, printing, or building a card base that won’t sag in the envelope, cardstock matters. It’s not just paper, it’s structure, feel, and finish. And if you’ve ever folded a “110lb” sheet that cracked like a dry biscuit, you already know not all cardstock is created equal.

Let’s break it down.

Cardstock is a type of paper that is thicker and more durable than regular writing or printing paper but thinner and more flexible than other forms of paperboard. It is commonly used for business cards, postcards, playing cards, and other applications requiring higher durability than standard paper. The weight of cardstock is measured in pounds (lb) or grams per square meter (gsm), with higher numbers indicating thicker and heavier paper.

📦 Not All 110lb Cardstock Is Created Equal

You’ll see “110lb” on everything from premium cover stock to budget packs at Walmart—but the feel, fold, and finish can be wildly different.

Here’s why:

Pound weight (lb) is based on the weight of 500 sheets of a specific size before it’s cut. That means two papers labeled “110lb” can behave completely differently depending on their original sheet size and paper type.
Cover stock vs. text weight:

110lb cover is thick, rigid, and ideal for card bases
110lb text is thinner, more like brochure paper

GSM (grams per square meter) is more consistent across brands

True 110lb cover stock ≈ 297gsm
If your pack doesn’t list GSM, that’s already a red flag

🧪 The feel test:
If it bends easily, cracks when folded, or warps under glue—it’s not true cover stock.
If it holds its shape, folds cleanly when scored, and feels like it could survive a mailbox ride—it’s the real deal.

📏 What Is GSM, and Why It’s More Reliable Than “Pound Weight”

GSM stands for grams per square meter, and it’s the most consistent way to measure paper thickness and density across brands and countries. Unlike “pound weight,” which depends on the size and type of the original paper sheet, GSM is universal—it tells you exactly how much a square meter of that paper weighs, no matter where it’s made or how it’s cut.

🧠 Why GSM Matters for Cordmakers

Pound weight is misleading. A 110lb cover stock and a 110lb text stock feel completely different—but GSM reveals the truth.
GSM gives you apples-to-apples comparisons. You can compare brands, finishes, and types without guessing.
Higher GSM = thicker, sturdier paper. Most good card bases fall between 270gsm and 300gsm.

📌 Quick GSM Guide for Cardmaking

🔍 How to Tell GSM (When It’s Not Listed)

Check the packaging. Good brands list GSM alongside pound weight.
Feel the paper. If it’s thick, rigid, and resists bending—it’s likely 270gsm or higher.
Compare side by side. Keep a swatch book or labeled scraps to test ink, folds, and weight.
Use a scale. If you’re really nerdy (no shame), weigh a known-size sheet and do the math.

🧱 Why 110lb Is the Cordmaker’s Standard

If you’ve ever browsed cardmaking forums, tutorials, or supply lists, you’ve probably seen 110lb cardstock mentioned again and again. It’s not just tradition—it’s practical.

Here’s why it’s the sweet spot:

Sturdy enough to stand on its own. A card base made from 110lb cover stock won’t flop, sag, or feel flimsy.
Thick enough to feel intentional. Customers notice the difference. A 110lb card feels like a keepsake, not a quick printout.
Thin enough to fold cleanly. With proper scoring, 110lb folds without cracking and still fits into standard envelopes.
Printer-friendly (with the right brand). Many 110lb stocks—like Hammermill Premium—feed smoothly through home printers without jamming or ghosting.

👻 What Is Ghosting in Printing?

Ghosting refers to a faint, unintended image or impression that appears where it shouldn’t—usually in solid areas of a print. It’s like a shadow or echo of a design that wasn’t supposed to be there.

It can happen when:

Ink doesn’t dry properly before stacking
Paper absorbs ink unevenly
Pressure or feed inconsistencies cause a partial reprint

🧼 How to Avoid Ghosting:

Use smooth, coated cardstock (like Hammermill Premium)
Let prints dry fully before stacking
Test ink compatibility before batching
Avoid high humidity when printing

✅ Recommended Cardstocks for Card Bases

These brands consistently deliver sturdy, reliable cardstock that behaves well for folding, layering, and printing:

🧴 Coated vs. Uncoated Cardstock: What It Means and Why It Matters

Not all cardstock has the same surface. Some are smooth and sealed like a countertop, others are soft and absorbent like a sponge. That’s the difference between coated and uncoated cardstock—and it affects everything from ink behavior to adhesive grip.

🧴 Coated Cardstock

This type has a smooth, sealed surface—often glossy or satin-like. It’s designed to resist ink absorption and give crisp, vibrant prints.

Pros:

Ink sits on top—great for laser printing and photo-heavy designs
Smooth finish—no feathering or bleed-through
Often more rigid at lower GSMs

Cons:

Can resist adhesives—tape runners may skip, liquid glue may smear
Harder to stamp—ink may not dry evenly
May crack when folded unless scored deeply

Examples:

Hammermill Premium Color Copy Cover
Glossy brochure stock
Satin photo cardstock

🧻 Uncoated Cardstock

This type has a natural, fibrous surface—more absorbent and textured. It’s ideal for stamping, writing, and soft finishes.

Pros:

Ink absorbs well—great for stamping and dye inks
Works with most adhesives
Folds cleanly with less cracking

Cons:

Ink can feather or bleed if oversaturated
Softer feel—may warp under heavy embellishments
Lower GSM stocks may feel flimsy

Examples:

Neenah Classic Crest
Recollections 110lb
Most textured or recycled papers

🧪 How to Tell the Difference

Touch test: Coated feels slick or shiny; uncoated feels soft or matte
Ink test: Print or stamp a solid block—coated will stay crisp, uncoated may soak
Fold test: Coated may crack unless scored; uncoated folds more gently

📦 A Note About Hammermill

I use Hammermill Premium Color Copy Cover 110lb (199gsm) regularly. The packaging doesn’t say “coated,” but the surface behaves like it is—smooth, crisp, and inkjet-friendly. It prints beautifully and folds cleanly when scored. Technically it’s under 200gsm, but it performs like a heavyweight. Don’t let the number fool you

🖊️ Why I Use Hammermill Premium 110lb (199gsm)

Personally, I keep Hammermill Premium Color Copy Cover 110lb (199gsm) in regular rotation. It’s smooth, sturdy, and behaves beautifully with ink-heavy designs. No bleed-through, no warping, and it plays nice with both dye and pigment inks.

And here’s the kicker: it goes through my printer every time. I can stack the sheets, hit print, and walk away—no babysitting, no feeding one sheet at a time. That alone makes it worth keeping on hand.

Also worth saying: I don’t stamp. Never been good at it, never felt drawn to it. So I rely on cardstock that prints clean and holds up to layering, trimming, and storytelling—without needing a perfect stamp impression to carry the design.

It’s not the fanciest brand on the shelf, but it’s consistent—and that matters more than a shiny label.

🧪 The Case for Generic Cardstock

Let’s not throw shade where it’s not needed. Generic cardstock has its place, and I always keep a pack of Walmart cardstock on hand. It’s perfect for:

Practicing layouts
Testing ink, stamps, or adhesives
Mocking up designs before committing to the good stuff
Quick notes or inserts that don’t need to be archival

And if you’re just starting out, generic cardstock might be the best option. You’ll go through a lot of paper in the beginning—some of it will warp, some will misprint, and plenty will end up in the trash. That’s part of the learning curve. Don’t throw good money in the trash trying to perfect your folds or test your stamps. Save the premium stuff for when you’re confident in your design and ready to commit.

It’s not ideal for final card bases, but it’s a workhorse for behind-the-scenes prep. And sometimes, that’s exactly what you need.

✂️ Common Card Sizes & What the A’s Mean

Card sizes can be confusing, especially when “A2” means something different in the U.S. than it does internationally. Here’s the breakdown for American cardmakers:

| A2 | 4.25" x 5.5" | Most common handmade card size; fits in invitation envelopes
| A6 | 4.5" x 6.25" | Slightly larger; good for layered designs
| A7 | 5" x 7" | Classic greeting card size; more formal
| A9 | 5.5" x 8.5" | Large format; often used for photo cards

🧭 Important: These “A” sizes refer to envelope standards, not international ISO paper sizes like A4 or A5.

🌍 European ISO Sizes vs. U.S. Card Sizes

ISO sizes are based on metric dimensions and used widely outside the U.S. Here's how they compare:

| A4 | 210 x 297 mm | 8.27" x 11.7" | U.S. Letter (8.5" x 11")
| A5 | 148 x 210 mm | 5.83" x 8.27" | Close to A9 card
| A6 | 105 x 148 mm | 4.13" x 5.83" | Very close to A2 card
| A7 | 74 x 105 mm | 2.91" x 4.13" | Smaller than typical U.S. cards; used for mini notes

💡 Tip: If you're buying envelopes or pre-cut blanks from international sellers, double-check the measurements. A6 in ISO is not the same as A6 in U.S. envelope sizing.

✉️ Envelope Sizing Tips

Card sizes are only half the battle—envelopes matter too. Here’s a quick match-up:

| A2 (4.25" x 5.5") | A2 envelope
| A6 (4.5" x 6.25") | A6 envelope
| A7 (5" x 7") | A7 envelope
| A9 (5.5" x 8.5") | A9 envelope

💡 Pro tip: If your card has bulky layers or embellishments, test the fit before sealing. A tight envelope can warp your work.

📐 Scoring, Folding & Behaving

Heavyweight cardstock should always be scored before folding.

Prevents cracking and uneven creases
Use a bone folder or scoring board for clean lines
Fold against the grain when possible—less resistance, cleaner finish

“If your fold looks like it’s been chewed by a possum, you skipped the score line.”

🧩 Cardmaker Extras: Tips That Make the Process Smoother

🧷 Adhesive Compatibility

Not all adhesives behave the same on heavyweight or specialty cardstock. Here’s what to watch for:

Tape runners may skip or peel on shimmer or coated finishes
Liquid glue can warp thinner layers if overused—use sparingly and let dry flat
Foam tape adds dimension but needs a sturdy base to avoid snagging, curling, or collapsing under pressure
Acetate (clear plastic sheets) resists most adhesives—use strong double-sided tape, glue dots, or specialty film adhesive. Liquid glue will smear, and tape runners often won’t grip. Always test before committing.

🌾 Grain Direction Basics

Folding against the grain gives you cleaner creases—but how do you find the grain?

Gently bend the sheet in both directions. The side that bends more easily is with the grain.
Score against the grain for crisp folds that don’t crack or ripple.

✨ Specialty Finishes (Shimmer, Linen, Vellum)

These papers add texture and elegance—but they come with quirks:

Shimmer and coated finishes may resist ink or take longer to dry
Linen textures can distort fine stamping or printed lines
Vellum is gorgeous for overlays but tears easily and needs gentle adhesive

Use them for layering or accents—not for card bases unless you’re ready to troubleshoot.

♻️ Recycled Cardstock: Beautiful but Tricky

Recycled paper is a great choice for sustainability, but it’s not always machine-friendly:

Ink can bleed through or feather on soft, fibrous surfaces
Cutting machines may snag or tear—especially with intricate designs
Scoring and folding can be unpredictable test before batching

That said, recycled cardstock can add warmth and texture to your designs. Just treat it like specialty stock: test first and use it where it shines.

📦 Keep a Recycle Box

Don’t toss your scraps too fast. Keep a box or bin for:

Misprints
Offcuts
Crooked folds
Ink tests
Backer panels or layering bits

You’ll be surprised how often those “mistakes” become accents, tags, or test pieces. It’s not just thrifty, it’s creative fuel.

🧵 Final Thoughts: Build Cards That Feel Intentional

Cardstock isn’t just a base—it’s the backbone.
Know your weights, test your folds, and choose sizes that suit your style.
Whether you’re layering shimmer paper or printing a story straight onto the panel, the right cardstock makes your work feel finished, not flimsy.

And if you’re just testing an idea? That Walmart packs got your back.

Back to blog

Item added to your cart

Everything You Never Wanted to Know About Cardstock

Leave a comment